Movers & Shakers: Iowa Wine Trail

The Iowa Wine Trail is one of five established trails in the state, but is the only one whose members reside within the only federally recognized viticultural area in Iowa, the Upper Mississippi River Valley AVA.  Through the collaborative nature of the wine trail, visitors are encouraged to travel to each member through a number of incentives, including themed weekend events which create unique experiences for participants.  ‘Around the World with Iowa Wines’, which was held on November 2 & 3, is one such event.  Thanks to the generosity of Dr. Paul Tabor of Tabor Home Winery & Vineyard in Baldwin, Iowa Decanted was given the opportunity to attend and partake in the unique pairings of Iowa wine with international cuisine.

 

Opportunity, A Letter from the Editor

It’s no secret that Americans are fascinated with the idea of a ‘self-made-man’, someone who has pulled themselves up by their bootstraps out of the dredges and, through hard work and perseverance, has deposited themselves at the top of the social heap.  It’s an archetype which has been ingrained into the very fabric of our social understanding, and we eat it up.

 But it may not be as accurate as we think.

 Sure, hard work and intelligence can take a person far (that much goes without saying), but success is also dependent on a number of factors which we rarely acknowledge, including the opportunities available to a person (or organization) according to their circumstances.  A person rarely succeeds purely as a result of his or her own efforts.  Do you think Steve Jobs would have been as successful as he was had he not grown up surrounded by the electronic revolution that was occurring during his youth in California?  If he hadn’t met Steve Wozniak, do you think he would have gotten so far in life?  Probably not.  His intelligence would have gotten him far, I’m sure, but without the opportunity afforded him because of his particular circumstance, he most likely would not have enjoyed such enormous success.  In other words, success isn’t just dependent on grit and intelligence – there must also be opportunity.

 So what does this have to do with wine?

 Believe it or not, these are the formative years of Iowa’s native wine industry.  The wine industry in Iowa is young, to say the least, particularly when compared to the producers of the West coast and the Old World (Europe).  It has an incredible amount of growth potential.  Now is the time when producers and industry-members will set the trend for years to come.  Decisions made today will impact the future of the industry, for better or worse.

 I have always felt that the future of the Iowa wine industry depends on the level and quality of collaboration its members engage in.  By working in a cooperative manner, solid foundations can be formed upon which future generations can build an even more vibrant and profitable industry.  Through industry-wide efforts, development can occur at a much faster rate.

 In other words, by working cooperatively, industry members can create opportunities which will allow for innovation and growth.  Why wait for opportunities to arise tomorrow when we can work together to create them today?

 The alternative (which could be described as an ‘every-man-for-himself’ approach to business) can only deteriorate the growth the industry has enjoyed over its short lifespan.  It would erode trust, increase short-term solutions, sabotage practical solutions for long-term growth, and create a frenetic and disjointed industry.  That is not what we want at all.

Cooperation is the key.  It results in better opportunities, higher quality, and greater return.

 Luckily, there are a number of cooperative measures already taking place in the state which are creating incredible opportunities and impacting the industry in a favorable manner.  The Iowa Quality Wine Consortium’s certification program is one such cooperative measure.  The IQWC was established through a joint effort of the Iowa Wine Growers Association and the Midwest Grape and Wine Industry Institute at Iowa State University.  Not only does the program offer a particular standard for the quality of Iowa wine, but it offers educational programs for industry members to further develop their skill set.

 The cooperative nature of this program allows wineries to benefit from the experience and knowledge of a wide range of industry-members, and offers them the invaluable opportunity to receive feedback and earn a mark of quality.  Other industry members can benefit from the opportunity to enhance their sensory analysis skills.  And, of course, this accumulated knowledge can be passed to the consumer, increasing brand awareness and market-share for the industry as a whole.

 You can see why I like this program.

 The truth of the matter is, we can achieve a higher level of success if we continue to work together to create the opportunities that drive growth.  When we do that, we all win.

 I encourage everybody to support cooperation throughout the Iowa wine industry.  It can come in numerous forms.  It can be as simple as encouraging the visitors of one winery to visit another close by.  It can be a bit more comprehensive, like directly supporting a program like the Midwest Grape and Wine Industry Institute and the Iowa Quality Wine Consortium.

 Whatever you chose to do, remember that connection and collaboration will always lead to incredible opportunity.  And where there is opportunity, there is always success.

Cheers,

 Nick Thornburg

founder, Iowa Decanted

Cheers to our new friend Adam Creager!

 

Adam Creager

Adam Creager is a native of Mt. Pleasant and a longtime wine enthusiast.  He is a strong supporter of the wine industry of Iowa, and a great friend to us here at Iowa Decanted!

Tasting Notes: “Holiday Pairing”

Have a pricey bottle of wine you plan on opening during a holiday meal?  Maybe you should think twice about popping that cork.  Join Lauren Chalupsky-Cannon of The Secret Cellar and Nick Thornburg of Iowa Decanted as they discuss wine pairing for the holiday season.

Q&A: Robert Morey

Best Case Wines, an importing and wholesaling company, was founded in 2011 by Robert Morey, with the goal of promoting wines which are characterized by:

  • a sense of graceful, harmonious balance

  • an expression of the place and culture from where they derive

  • value for the money

  • the experience of pleasure they offer to the drinker

The wines sold by Best Case Wines can be found around the state at a number of retail establishments and restaurants.  Iowa Decanted reached out to Mr. Morey in order to get his insights on wine and the industry.

Iowa Decanted: When you are choosing a wine to distribute, what are you looking for specifically?

Robert Morey: To me, wine enhances the enjoyment of meals in good company.  With that in mind I am looking for four things: balance, by which I mean that its component parts — fruit, acidity, alcohol, tannins — harmonize together; an expression of the place & culture of where the wine is grown; value for the money; and pleasure.  If a wine is not a pleasure, I don’t want to drink it.

ID: What is the mark of a fine wine?  What characteristics would you say they have?

RM: To be honest I’m not crazy about the term “fine wine.”  To me it sounds fussy.  There is more good wine today — and it can be had less expensively — than ever before in human history, due to the invention of stainless steel, modern sanitation, and temperature control.  Still, some wines are better than others.  Balance is key.  I don’t want a wine that is too jammy, or too alcoholic, or too tannic.  And also I like a wine with authentic personality, a wine that makes me realize that it is like none other, that it could be grown nowhere but in those particular vineyards.

ID: How would you suggest inexperienced wine consumers approach their education?

RM: The best, easiest, and most enjoyable way to learn more about wine is to drink more wine while paying attention.  Find a friendly wine shop staffer who can help guide you.  Have an open mind and a spirit of adventure.  If you want to be systematic about it, you could spend a while drinking different wines of the same region, or spend a while drinking different wines from the same grape variety.  That way you can learn, for instance, about what characterizes Chardonnay, while also learning the grape’s varying possibilities, too.  And I find that it is always more fun to drink in company, comparing notes with your companions.

ID: The wine industry in Iowa is very young compared to that of the Old World.  What suggestions can you make to growers and winemakers that you think will allow them to become more skilled and competitive?

RM: Most of the world’s most honored winegrowing regions have terrible, barren-looking soil.  That is what traditional wine grapevines like.  Here in Iowa, we have the richest soil in the world, and those grape varieties can’t overwinter here anyway.  So I think it is a mistake to try to make Iowa wines that imitate wines of the Old World, or even wines of the U.S. west coast or the Finger Lakes.  To me it makes more sense to work with grape varieties that thrive here, and work to develop a wine style and a wine culture that’s distinct to the American midwest.  The Iowa winegrowers I actually know, and the Universities too, are working hard to do that.  But the world’s other winegrowing regions have hundreds of years’ head-start.  Iowa’s winegrowing is in its infancy.

ID: Do you have a preferred wine or grape?  If so, what specific characteristics make it your favorite?

RM: Hard question.  I rarely drink sweet wines because they pair well with a much more limited range of foods.  You know that my heart is in France.  I love all kinds of bubbly wine, especially Champagne.  I love dry rosé wine, especially in the summer.  I love the Chardonnays of Burgundy, the Sauvignons of the Loire Valley, dry Riesling especially from Alsace, robust reds and aromatic whites of the Rhône Valley and southern France. . . .  There is a lot to love.

Movers & Shakers: Tasting Proficiency Class

The Midwest Grape and Wine Industry Institute out of Iowa State University is a program which those involved in the Iowa wine industry are quite familiar with. It leads the state in viticulture and enology related research, and provides a number of valuable services to wine-makers and viticulturalists around the state and the midwest. One of the programs it offers is a two day intensive wine tasting proficiency class, headed by institute director Dr. Murli Dharmadhikari.

‘Tasting Notes’ – Episode 1

When Iowa Decanted was conceptualized, one of the things we wanted to bring to our readers was a fun, friendly way to learn more about the world of wine.  With the help of Lauren Chalupsky-Cannon, wine expert and proprietor of The Secret Cellar in Shueyville, we’ve created a monthly program which breaks wine education and appreciation into bite-sized (and enjoyable) chunks.  So, sit back and enjoy the premiere episode of Tasting Notes!

Medieval Vineyard

The wine trade has been a significant part of the human experience for thousands of years.  In many ways it has progressed (particularly in regards to sanitary practices and quality assurance), but in other ways it remains familiar to its original roots.

Take the cost of setting up a profitable vineyard, for instance.

A spreadsheet provided by Iowa State University Extension provides the estimated cost of establishing a one acre vineyard would be $4846.40 at the end of year one.  If we use the average size of a vineyard in Missouri as reference (at 4 acres), that cost would be around $19,385.60.  Compare that to figures pulled from the records of the abbey of Saint-Romain in the Saone valley totaling the cost of maintaining a vineyard for a year in the late 15th century and we see a familiar picture.

  • manuring (cost of dung & baskets for transport): 17 florins
  • digging: 19 florins
  • staking (cost of stakes included, ties, transport, pruning, food for workers and pay): 52 florins
  • Harvest (62 pickers, 48 porters, 11 men on winepress): 17 florins

Average total cost = 105 florins

In today’s dollars that would be around $21,000.

Cedar Valley Winery – ‘Red Tie Affair’ Iowa Red Table Wine

This wine is ruby with a hint of brown.  Tiny bubbles cling to the inner edges of the glass.  Strong woodiness on the nose with hints of cherry and licorice.  The wine is sweet, with gentle acidity.  Strong vanilla notes on the palette.

4/5

Tassel Ridge Winery – ‘Pink Catawba’

The wine’s color lives up to its name.  It exhibits the distinct grapey quality of the Catawba grape on the nose and in the mouth.  Fruit forward and sweet, with a touch of acidity.  Best served chilled – and perhaps during a warm afternoon picnic!

4.5/5